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Beautiful end to a great month in Malawi

trip to Cape Maclear on Lake Malawi on the way back to Lilongwe for the flight home

Well, I am home safe and sound in Kitchener - a long way from Malawi, in so many ways! It is very nice to be home, even despite the rain and cold of fall.

Here are a few photos from the last few days in Malawi - we went to Cape Maclear on Lake Malawi for the weekend before flying home. It was a beautiful, peaceful spot and I understand why Malawians are so proud of their lake! highlights included the 'Gecko Lounge' where we stayed - a relaxed, Zen-like place - and a great kayak I went on one afternoon where I really felt the similarities between Lake Malawi and some of our great lakes, especially Georgian Bay (the huge granite rocks, clear water, lots of wildlife).

then it was back to Lilongwe, the capital city, for an overnight before flying home via Jo'burg, RSA then a touchdown in Dakar, Senegal and a terrifyingly close call transferring in Washington before making it back to Buffalo airport. Amazingly, all the luggage made it home too!

Looking forward to seeing everyone soon! Until then, here are a few photos:

last day at work

last day at work

shoreline of Lake Malawi

shoreline of Lake Malawi

Gecko Lounge from the water

Gecko Lounge from the water

colourful cichlids in lake malawi

colourful cichlids in lake malawi

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Sunset from the water at Cape Maclear

Sunset from the water at Cape Maclear

Learning the local game "Bao" in Lilongwe - a very serious match!

Learning the local game "Bao" in Lilongwe - a very serious match!

I met Nelson Mandela in Jo'burg airport!!

I met Nelson Mandela in Jo'burg airport!!

Posted by ryan7672 05:54 Comments (0)

Taulo village - getting a glimpse of rural Malawi

Hi everyone, hope everything is well at home!

Thanks for the emails, and sorry for not replying individually - the internet cafe is a 30min walk from the guest house after a 30 min walk home from work, so I dont have many chances to catch up unfortunately! Hope these updates are ok!

Main street in Zomba

Main street in Zomba

Last weekend we were lucky enough to go to Zomba, one of the main centres in Malawi, approx 1 hr from Blantyre. It is a beautiful forested area at the base of the Zomba Plateau, an impressive rocky flat-top mountain. The purpose of the visit was to meet Newton, the Malawi manager (and sole permanent staff) of an NGO called Future Vision. This NGO was just started recently by Dr. Dan HAyhoe, an optometrist at home who also lived in Malawi for years doing other development work. Dan is really the reason I am in Malawi - he introduced Dr. Joe Lee, my preceptor, to the country in 2009 which lead to the opportunity at the hospital in Blantyre. Anyway, Newton is a Malawian with various development education and trained accountant, and he is in charge of the group's main project in a village outside Zomba called Taulo. In fact, it is an "area" really - more like rural Ontario where houses are spread out over multiple KM's of fields. There are something like 400 families in the village. It was highlighted by local officials as a very impoverished area lacking many resources like clean water, access to education and health care, electricity, etc. Thus, Future Vision targeted the village after Newton did an incredible amount of work on the ground, getting a needs assessment and figuring out what exactly the people need/want.

When we arrived in Zomba Newton took us on the 1 hr truck ride to Taulo, where we simply expected to walk around and look at the schoolhouse which was just renovated.... well, I should have known better that such a visit would be more elabaorate than that! (Kendra, remember the school visit our first week in Ghana... dancing and the whole bit?) Well, there was no dancing, but the Chief of Taulo and a whole congregation of volunteers on school committee met us for a formal meeting, where we were all introduced and spoke about the projects, the village, etc. Then we got a guided tour of the projects underway, and the village in general. We spent a number of hours talking with everyone and just walking about. Everyone was welcoming of course, and very interested to show us their way of life - it was a very meaningful day.

We also stayed over night with Newton's family, which was very nice. In the morning I cooked french toast for everyone, which Dan's daughter had showed Ida how to cook earlier this year!

Newton, his wife Ida, his son praise and daughter Shalom and us four.

Newton, his wife Ida, his son praise and daughter Shalom and us four.

Me holding little Shalom - had a hard time putting her down, she was so content!

Me holding little Shalom - had a hard time putting her down, she was so content!

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The main project right now is renovating the old school house which was literally falling apart last yaer. It was the only preschool in the area, and even for primary school the kids must walk 7 km each way at least (depending on where they live). Not feasible for the younger ones at all, and many just don't go to school.

So, with mostly villager help and some contracting for carpentry etc, the schoolhouse renovation is complete, and there are 400 children attending the PRESCHOOL alone! (age 3-5). Yes, the two rooms are not enough, so there are plans for another school house, and hopefully a further building for junior primary school (gr 1-4).

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The other project is obtaining clean water. The village has no wells (bore holes) and use shallow holes with muddy water which dries up by the end of the dry season. Right now they've started filtering water through cloth and then treating it in water bottles in the sun for 2 days (very smart UV filtration!), but it is only feasible to do this for the children. Everyone else still relies on the dirty water. So, bore holes will be coming soon hopefully.

DSCN5624.jpgShowing us how they line up bottles of dirty water to get sunlight for 2 days for UV filtration

Showing us how they line up bottles of dirty water to get sunlight for 2 days for UV filtration

And, the most intriguing project from my point of view, is the idea (not yet planned) of starting a simple clinic in the area to focus on childrens health and antenatal/maternity care. Newton and I spoke at length about this, and it seems that this is their next big goal, with help from Govt of Malawi who would provide staff and supplies. It would be really amazing to come back and work at such a clinic - because what these people really need are some version of a family doctor, checking the kids growth, following pregnancies, referring serious problems to Zomba, etc... it would be much more in my comfort zone than the wards of the hospital! Anyway, that is a big 'maybe'... but a nice one to think about. Oh yes, and Kendra, I talked with Newton a lot about social work - he says they are very needed in these projects and are very few in Malawi. He said that any visiting MSW would be a huge asset, to meet with families, determine their needs, discuss problems in the village and come up with solutions, and in general act as a social liason between the people of the vilage and the projects... interesting eh?

Sunset at Taulo

Sunset at Taulo

I have been VERY impressed with how Newton and Future Vision have approached the project. After seeing a few different development projects in Ghana and Thailand, I recognized immediately that he is doing a lot of good things. No cash handouts that end up doing nothing. No promises up front, just discussion of what is needed and how exactly Future Vision can help. For example, to start agriculture for the school children's lunches they have provided seed and fertilizer at a discount, and the village donated land to be used. Then they harvest a crop of maize which is enough to both feed the children at school AND buy more seeds next year without any financial help. A sustainable system immediately. And the villagers are so hard working that it works - they want another schoolhouse for the children, so they have already cut out and stacked 150,000 mud bricks ready to be fired. All they need is a contractor to help with constructing a good structure, which Future Vision can help with.

Ok, enough rambling on.... you can tell I enjoyed the weekend. Gave me a glimpse into REAL Malawi (most Malawians live rurally, and don't have power, etc). Very different from the somewhat colonial feel of Blantyre.

Now I'm back at work and still loving it - getting faster and better at all the ward jobs, and starting to recognize what to do for HIV/TB/other rare things we don't see at home. Also getting frustrated with some of the inefficiencies that cost patients their lives occasionally - things just happen slowly because of a lack of staff and resources. But that is part of the reality outside our developed bubble. CAn't believe this is the last week of work, then a long weekend on the way to Lilongwe and the flight home next Tuesday AM. Home in 7.5 days!!

Take care, and will likely give the last update this weekend... xo ryan

Posted by ryan7672 09:11 Comments (0)

Time flies...

... when you're working all day and it gets dark at 6pm!! where did the week go???

sunny 28 °C
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Work...

The first week at queen elizabeth was an excellent start - as I said in the first entry, we have been put to work fairly quickly which is great. Lots of ward duties and any time we have free there are always clinics that are over-full. The week flew by and can't wait for the enxt to begin.

Play...

Since Friday was a holiday here in Malawi (end of Ramadan), the four of us decided to take advantage and go to Liwonde National Park to see the famous Shire river and all its amazing wildlife through some safaris. We ended up staying at an excellent camp in the park, only accessible by boat, and taking a number of driving/boat/walking safaris on SAturday and Sunday morning. It was really incredible to see how many animals are pushed to the river by the dry season, and made for great viewing of elephant, hippos everywhere in the water, crocs, many types of antelope, baboons, wart hogs, and many more.

There are too many too describe, but highlights? The guides - really knowledgeable and friendly, and funny! And seeing a herd of elephnat from the boat as they came down to the bank to drink, just beautiful. Also, the close encounter of an elephant tramping by my room at 10pm at night and stopping right in front to turn and look at me through the screen door 10 ft away as i shone my flashlight out to see what he noise was (probably not a good idea, thank goodness he and his tusks just kept walking! I suppose they're used to that sort of annoyance, and I was inside a stone chalet, but it was still a heartstopping moment!

See some photos below... many more on the memory stick!

will hopefully get another update in during the week, but no guarantee because its hard to get from the hospital into town before the internet shops close....

beautiful animals

beautiful animals

i know, i should have shaved

i know, i should have shaved


hartebeast or male impala... impala i think

hartebeast or male impala... impala i think


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sunset in Liwonde

sunset in Liwonde


desert rose... one of the only flowers blooming in dry season

desert rose... one of the only flowers blooming in dry season


traditional drumming and dances at dinner on saturday night

traditional drumming and dances at dinner on saturday night

Posted by ryan7672 12.09.2010 07:08 Archived in Malawi Tagged safariliwonde Comments (0)

Budget accommodation in Malawi

Read reviews from other Travellerspoint members.

Getting started and getting to know people!

A great beginning to the month at Queen Elizabeth Hospital in Blantyre.

sunny -28 °C
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Well, it has been 6 days since landing in Malawi, but the first few days were simply spent in transit to Blantyre, and then exploring the area on the weekend.

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on mt muchiru!

Myself, Kelly, and two optometry students/grads walked the city and found some nice spots for ice cream, fanta, groceries, etc on Saturday, and then undertok a big 3+hr hike on Sunday in a nearby conservation area, Mt Muchiru. Led by our fearless guide Edward, who was definitely a great source of knowledge about the park and Malawi in general, we took the "challenging" (VERY steep) climb up most of the moutnain, notquite making the summit. Animals were scarce, but we did see a woodpecker!, Baboon, antelope (just 1, but still beautiful), and Gemet (big, rabbit-like). it was hot (30 i'd say) and sunny, like every day here so far. It cools down a lot ihn the evening which is nice, so no need for a/c or even a fan for sleeping. Take a look at the pictures from thsi weekend.

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sunset at the guesthouse

Accommodationa nd food, i should mention, is really great - full bdroom with hot shower, and breakfast included as well as dinner if we request. No problems there! Plus, there is a great restaurant at the hospital for big lunches if needed.

As for work, we started monday AM in the dept of medicine, and it was a very good start! Although we went through the usual "where do we go, who do we follow, where is that??? orientation, once we latched onto another visiting resident from the UK who's been here a while we were shown waht's what. So much of the work is networking and meeting people in the hospital - not unlike rotations at home - e.g. "where are the supplies, where do you bring the blood tests , who can you talk to to get an urgent xray/ct/, etc." It turns out that there is a very impressive amount of teaching and learning going on here as well, with regular sessions for the many Malawi med students and registrars once or twice daily that we go to. And there are a number of visiting and local consultants who expertly oversee the wards and most clinics.

We've been covering a section of inpatient wards with a visiting consultant from Ireland, who has really helped us feel useful as well! Rounding, doing bloodwork, arranging tests, etc. And we also go to the odd clinic - today there was a general medical clinic that saw 63 patients in the "morning" alone (9am to 3pm!). So, getting to see patients and assess just like home is nice, meanwhile having the support of a knowledgeable consultant in the next room and usually a local medical student in the room with me to help as well (with some translation, but just as much clinically, since they know so much of the local trends here). Definitely a more dramatic amount of disease here, and cough + fever = Tb so far, and 80% of inpatients have HIV, so obviously there is a big difference from home. However, compared to previous experiences (Ghana, Thailand) I find it very comforting that there are actually a good number of resources available at this big hospital - personnel, individual specialist clinics to refer to (such as HIV, Tb programs), and investigations usually available like basic bloodwork, imaging incl any Xray, US, sometimes CT and occasionally MRI!!, and a good selection of medications available. That being said, there are many issues that are difficult - the impossibiility of sme patients to make it into the city for followup, poor social situations especially for women, malnutrition and poverty's many other problems...

In any case, it is a good start! I think I will continue to so a mix of wards and clinics to feel as useful as possible, and continue to soak up whatever i can in terms of learning, which is the biggest thing right now!

no photos of the hospital yet (there probly wont be many) but here are some others from the first few days...

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downtown blantyre

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the malawi medical college guesthouse

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one of the surround peaks around blantyre

delicious dinner

delicious dinner


This is fried Chombo (a sweet tilapia-like fish, so good!), and Nsima (the local maize-based starch dish that is a lot like the cassava based Fufu in ghana, even tastes the same... pretty bland but really filling and nice with a good sauce!)

Posted by ryan7672 08.09.2010 08:44 Archived in Malawi Tagged malawi Comments (0)

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